Super Fitness Health BlogThe arrival of Spring and how this could possibly lead to wet basements.
A Guelph realtor advises: one positive signal of spring in Ontario is wet basements! Here are some tips I discovered at a recent workshop on basements for Guelph realtors.
Tip #1: basements were never intended to be finished living areas.
Tip #2: when you finish the basement, anticipate future moisture problems.
Time was basements were left ‘to cure’ for a year or two before finishing, so cracks because of shifting or other moisture complications would be noticeable and repaired before drywall was installed. Now builders offer to finish it for you straight away.
As the snow melts you can find surface water running down the foundation walls. Add that groundwater to already water-saturated ground being pressed into your foundation wall by hydrostatic pressure and you’ve a problem. Water usually follows the path of least resistance therefore if you happen to have cracks, holes or shifting blocks or bricks in your foundation you could discover water, or at a minimum dampness, within your basement. When the ground underneath the footings freezes the soil may expand and cause the foundation to heave and water always finds the easiest way through. Downspouts that run directly into the foundation, poor grading where the soil runs down to the foundation, foundation plantings, blocked or damaged perimeter drainage systems and exterior damp-proofing that could be no longer dependable can all add to such problems.
Just what difference does your foundation make?
Rubble stone foundations were common pre WW 1 and were cost-effective, because the stone was gathered on the cleared land. Basements with stone foundations were certainly never designed to become finished living space. That was where the coal, potatoes and preserves were stored. There’s a higher risk of moisture troubles with a rubble stone foundation and it is an on-going maintenance situation.
From about 1910 to 1935 brick was popular. Bricks swell if they get wet and this can assist in avoiding leakage nonetheless expect dampness in the basement, since eventually bricks may also shift and crumble. Then from about 1940 to 1970 concrete blocks were normally utilized for foundations specifically when owners were doing it themselves. When built correctly, with rods properly inserted and blocks filled with concrete, these kinds of foundations have withstood the test of time. However, it’s impossible to see, once it’s built, whether or not it has these materials. Generally if the blocks are hollow, water will be able to fill them and the blocks can begin shifting.
Wood foundations haven’t been usual in southern Ontario, therefore wouldn’t be a consideration for Guelph property, but they are used a lot more in western Canada. Poured concrete foundations have been utilized since the early 1900s and are still viewed as probably the most reliable, in spite of frequent complications with cracks. On the other hand, older concrete foundations where river rock and big bits of gravel and stone were used really don’t hold together as well. The concrete really should be poured totally at the same time for the very best adherence.
Building methods and components have improved gradually. Clay weeping tiles which normally moved and became clogged have been replaced by continuous plastic pipe with drainage holes plus a geo-textile sock over that filters out sand and silt. A bitumous (tar) coating was formerly painted onto the exterior foundation parging, even though it would crack and fade away in the end. Today a drainage layer of corrugated plastic sheeting is commonly used to hold the soil away from foundations walls, creating an air gap between the foundation wall and the backfill dirt, which conducts water down to the weeping system. Also there is a peel and stick tar-like material which is not usually applied during construction but used as a retrofit.
Solving the issue:
Fixing water and moisture conditions within your basement is a process of elimination. Start with the most apparent culprits. Look into surface water drainage. Are the gutters plugged with leaves and debris and overflowing when it rains? Do the downspouts extend a minimum of 10 feet away from the house, or if they go into the ground will they drain in the footing drainage system? Does the paved drive way or foundation planting beds incline toward the foundation? If pavement adjoins or abuts the property wall is it thoroughly sealed or has the sealant disintegrated? Sewer connection problems, failed sump pump and window wells that drive water in to the foundation are other considerations.
Frequently it is as simple as a $5 fix to include an extension for a downspout or it may be $20,000 to dig up the whole foundation and replace the weeping tiles. You will find companies that specialise in resolving basement moisture issues and many guarantee their work. The MLS listing will not be likely to state if you can anticipate such challenges. This is certainly another reason to have a qualified home inspector check your house before purchasing.
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